Bias cut

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Bias cut gown designed by Madeline Vionett

About

The bias-cut was created by fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet in 1927.[1] It revolutionized the silhouette of the 1930s. She later became known as the "Queen of the bias cut".[2]

Madeleine drew on inspiration from Classical Greek fashion, to create feminine and romantic gowns. The cut sought to emphasize the natural curves of a woman through the drape and fabric choice.[3] Unlike the popular designs of the time, the bias cut sought to bring attention to curves as opposed to hide them.[4]

Due to the nature of the cut, it required several more yards of fabric, which meant that the bias-cut was often not for the budget conscious women of the Great Depression. The design was loved by the likes of Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo and society elite like the Duchess of Windsor.[5]

Unlike other dress makers of her time, Madeleine cut the fabric at a 45 degree angle, instead of on the grain. Which allowed the fabric to drape easily over the woman's body.[6]

Many believe that the invention of the bias cut was Madeleine's greatest contribution to fashion, with John Galliano still championing the design today.[7][8]

Gallery

References

  1. Notes from the sewing studio
  2. Fashion Collections
  3. Hemline Quarterly
  4. Hemlock Vintage
  5. Missomnimedia
  6. On This Day in Fashion
  7. Dictionary
  8. Uneanglaiseaparis
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