Madeleine drew on inspiration from Classical Greek fashion, to create feminine and romantic gowns. The cut sought to emphasize the natural curves of a woman through the drape and fabric choice. Unlike the popular designs of the time, the bias cut sought to bring attention to curves as opposed to hide them.
Due to the nature of the cut, it required several more yards of fabric, which meant that the bias-cut was often not for the budget conscious women of the Great Depression. The design was loved by the likes of Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo and society elite like the Duchess of Windsor.
Unlike other dress makers of her time, Madeleine cut the fabric at a 45 degree angle, instead of on the grain. Which allowed the fabric to drape easily over the woman's body.